To almost everyone else in the world, Singapore is not a significant place.
Hence, we don't often see articles in the foreign press about us. But even when
such an article appears, it is by no means assured that the readers will be any
the wiser about Singapore. Too many pieces purporting to describe Singapore to
Americans, Australians or Europeans are journalistically shallow. They often
rehash tired old shibboleths, and seldom interrogate their own Western picture
of Singapore as one or more of these things: exotic, modern, efficient, sterile,
dictatorial, oppressive, over-regulated.
If it's the American press, you can also expect
the following (American, not Singaporean) obsessions to be mentioned: chewing
gum and flogging.
Below is an example, thankfully, not American. It's a feature entitled
"No place for misfits", in a Scottish newspaper. The title is
promising. It suggests an analysis of Singapore society or politics in an
attempt to understand why there is no place for misfits here, why there is so
much conformity. Sadly, the promise is not fulfilled. In fact, the article is so
far off its own mark, it won't even merit a passing grade in a school essay
exam for 16 year-olds.
And this is the kind of stuff that tries to
explain Singapore to the world.
The article itself is reproduced in
indented blocks. At
certain points, I add my comments (not indented).
The
Scotsman
Sunday, 21 April 2002
No place for
misfits
Jeff Mills
LOCAL wags call Singapore
a `Fine City' - not only because of its splendour, but because you can
get fined for activities that form an unexceptional part of everyday
life in less regulated, metropolises. Consider yourself warned. Smoking
in a public place, such as a cinema, air-conditioned restaurant or
shopping mall for example, will cost you S500(£190); dropping litter
costs S1,000 (£380).
Actually, no one here cares
to refer to Singapore as a 'Fine City'. Only tourist T-shirts sold at
souvenir shops use that phrase. No doubt, the salesman at the shop
pointed it out to the journalist, and made a big joke of it, as salesmen
often do (it's called building rapport with your customers), but one
salesman hardly qualifies as the plural "local wags".
And what are those fines? Nothing
exceptional. Many cities in the world forbid smoking and littering in
various places. Fines are a normal part of deterrence.
So what remarkable insight has been
conveyed to readers by the first paragraph, that is unique to Singapore?
None. But the impression (despite lack of good evidence so far) is still
created that Singapore is pettily over-regulated, with individual
freedom trampled upon.
I'm not saying that in reality, Singapore
isn't over-regulated, or that our liberties aren't abridged, but this
article does a poor job of arguing so.
I
ponder this as I make my way through immigration at squeaky-clean,
super-efficient Changi airport - the very model of what airports should
aspire to. I was in a hurry to get to my hotel after a 13-hour flight
from the UK and it was early, so I didn't stock up at the airport's Duty
Free shops, though I could have, since this is one of the few civilised
airports in the world which allows you to buy alcohol on arrival.
Singapore is so perfect,
so clean and so well regulated that, climate aside, it would fit in
seamlessly in Switzerland or Scandinavia. The island suffered from a bit
of an image problem for a few years following the controls put in place
under Lee Kuan Yew's prime ministership, and went through a period when
it was about as exciting as a multi-storey car park.
See? No article worth the
paper it's printed on can avoid mentioning cleanliness and efficiency.
In reality, many Singaporeans will qualify these attributes, based on
their day-to-day encounters with dirt, pollution and bureaucratic
obstructionism, but that wouldn't fit in very well with the
"received wisdom" of the West, would it?
You would also have noticed that
Sterility also made its expected appearance: "about as exciting as
a multi-storey car park".
And honestly, why is stocking up (or not)
at Duty-free important enough to merit a mention?
Since he
retired as PM, Singapore's a very different place and a trip to this
island state is now an attractive proposition. Even the entertainment
scene - though nothing like as vibrant as it was when the transvestites
and other dubious characters of Bugis Street were strutting their stuff
- has come on in leaps and bounds under the slightly more relaxed hand
of present prime minister Goh Chok Tong. But don't expect the
atmospheric chaos of other Far East centres. This is a hi-tech,
high-rise city filled with hotels all doing their best to outshine one
another with better service and more spectacular guest rooms,
restaurants and bars.
Bugis Street again! Oh lord,
won't they ever get off it? I'm
old enough to have seen the real streetwalkers, and I can tell you, the
transvestites were mostly past their use-by date. In any case, they were shoo'ed away from the area some 25
years ago, in the mid 70's.
To Singaporeans today, Bugis Street means
nothing. It certainly doesn't represent any golden age of excitement.
It's a hand-me-down memory from lecherous, army grunts on R&R from
the Vietnam War, too pissed-drunk even to stumble out of the
brothels.
Yet, a generation on, much writing about
Singapore still sucks blood out of the Bugis Street reference. It's like
a leech forever stuck on a bum, with a view of Singapore
grotesquely limited by its fleshy contours.
[See addenda #2]
Fairly
typical, and a favourite with well-heeled travellers, is the Oriental at
Marina Square, where many of the luxurious rooms have views across the
bay. All the usual five-star facilities can be found in this stylish
hotel, designed with the familiar atrium by John Portman at its heart.
If you prefer a lush tropical garden setting, opt for one of the rooms
in the recently-upgraded Garden Wing of the Shangri-La which, in spite
of its size (760 rooms), still manages to provide excellent service.
The above paragraph and all
the rest that follow, don't even deserve a comment. You can tell that
the information is lifted from various brochures put out by the hotels,
restaurants and other tourist attractions.
These regurgitations constitute 12 out of
the total 16 paragraphs of the feature article.
Right at the end, one more bit of
silliness: Tiger Balm. Take a thousand Singaporeans aside and ask if
anyone has Tiger Balm, and chances are, the answer's no. It's just
another tourist souvenir, with a charming story for the gullible.
To
stay in a piece of history, there's nothing like the legendary Raffles
Hotel - one of the few remaining great 19th century establishments, and
declared a national monument by the government in 1987. Shortly
afterwards it was given a S160m refurbishment and reopened in 1991.
Some say the present
version has lost a lot of its old charm, but the original buildings are
still there, albeit reinforced by modern amenities of which the old
timers could only dream. The long bar still pulls in those in search of
a Singapore Sling, and this remains the place to go for an old-style
afternoon tea.
Those in the know are
heading for one of the newest gems on Singapore's scene, The Fullerton,
housed in a beautiful 1920s building, complete with Doric columns and
monumental porte cocheres, which at various times has been home to the
General Post Office, The Exchange, Chamber of Commerce and Singapore's
Inland Revenue Authority.
Located by the river,
right in the centre of the financial and business district, it is small
wonder that The Fullerton has fast become the in-place for an after work
drink, as well as a firm favourite with savvy visitors.
If you prefer urban chic,
try the Gallery Evason at 79 Robertson Quay - so new and so cool you
expect to see a sheen of ice on the walls. The Evason's management is
proud of the hotel's art collection, so don't be surprised if you come
across some odd items as you make your way through the hotel.
It took me quite a time
to work out that a bucket half filled with water with a rubber duck
floating in it - which I nearly tripped over in the lift - was actually
an object d'art and not the result of a sloppy chambermaid leaving her
cleaning materials in the wrong place. Prepare for concierges wearing
more expensive designer suits than your own, and look out for the Liquid
Room - a laid-back bar and club which has the local smart set fighting
for membership. Those staying at the hotel will have no problem getting
in, however.
All of these hotels leave
you well placed for both shopping and sightseeing - two of the
activities for which Singapore is rightly well known. For the former,
head for Orchard Road where you will find a large selection of malls and
stores selling everything from clothes and jewellery to compact disks
and cameras.
When it comes to
sightseeing, a good starting point is a boat trip along the river from
Clarke Quay. Then head to the Botanical Gardens and see the herbarium,
specially built to house orchids, Singapore's national flower. There are
reputed to be 12,000 types growing here alone. Singapore Zoo is worth a
visit, too. At breakfast time you can eat with the orang-utans. Next
door is the Night Safari where, between 7.30 pm and midnight, you can
watch buffalo, deer, tigers and fishing cats as they come out to feed.
With its strict hygiene
regulations, Singapore is a wonderful city for local restaurants, since
there's little danger of being laid low by a bug. Chinese restaurants
are ubiquitous, but you will find cuisine from the whole of the Asia
Pacific region, plus Europe and the Americas.
Indochine at 49, Club
Street (00 65 323 0503) is a good bet - one of Singapore's most elegant
restaurants, with a menu featuring food from such places as Vietnam,
Laos and Cambodia. For a serious formal dinner head upstairs, otherwise
stay in the courtyard area where you can soak up the atmosphere and
check out the street life outside. For casual surroundings, head for
Clarke Quay, one of the many regenerated areas by the river now awash
with decent bars and restaurants. Hotters (00 65 332 1991), serves
massive helpings of American-style seafood. For an Asia Pacific flavour
try The Satay Club (no bookings, just turn up), specialising in a wide
variety of local noodle-and-rice-based dishes and of course, satay,
skewered meat grilled over charcoal.
After all that feasting
don't forget to bring home a couple of jars of Tiger Balm, that
peculiarly Eastern analgesic cure-all originally prepared for Chinese
emperors. It's claimed that Tiger Balm can sort out virtually every
ailment from aches and pains to high blood pressure. Just the thing
after a few busy days in Singapore.
* * * * *
What has the writer been busy with? you wonder.
Doing the tourist thing, going from one expensive hotel to another, dining (on
whose account, one wonders?) in fine restaurants, and throwing back Singapore
Slings (which Singaporeans don't care for).
Where in all this is there any sign that the
writer interviewed some ordinary Singaporeans to ask them about the society's
place, if any, for misfits? Remember? The subject of the article?
We often lament that we don't have freedom of the
press here. Being beholden to the government, our newspapers can't be entirely
trusted. It's easy to assume that things are better in the West. Not
necessarily. There is quality journalism, for sure, but there's also a lot of
mediocrity around. And who says that public opinion in the West is formed by
their quality papers? Isn't it just as plausible that public opinion is formed
by the second rate ones? 
© Yawning Bread
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