May 2002

The leech on the trannie's bum


    

 

 

To almost everyone else in the world, Singapore is not a significant place. Hence, we don't often see articles in the foreign press about us. But even when such an article appears, it is by no means assured that the readers will be any the wiser about Singapore. Too many pieces purporting to describe Singapore to Americans, Australians or Europeans are journalistically shallow. They often rehash tired old shibboleths, and seldom interrogate their own Western picture of Singapore as one or more of these things: exotic, modern, efficient, sterile, dictatorial, oppressive, over-regulated.

If it's the American press, you can also expect the following (American, not Singaporean) obsessions to be mentioned: chewing gum and flogging.

Below is an example, thankfully, not American. It's a feature entitled "No place for misfits", in a Scottish newspaper. The title is promising. It suggests an analysis of Singapore society or politics in an attempt to understand why there is no place for misfits here, why there is so much conformity. Sadly, the promise is not fulfilled. In fact, the article is so far off its own mark, it won't even merit a passing grade in a school essay exam for 16 year-olds.

And this is the kind of stuff that tries to explain Singapore to the world.

The article itself is reproduced in indented blocks. At certain points, I add my comments (not indented).

The Scotsman
Sunday, 21 April 2002

No place for misfits
Jeff Mills 

LOCAL wags call Singapore a `Fine City' - not only because of its splendour, but because you can get fined for activities that form an unexceptional part of everyday life in less regulated, metropolises. Consider yourself warned. Smoking in a public place, such as a cinema, air-conditioned restaurant or shopping mall for example, will cost you S500(£190); dropping litter costs S1,000 (£380).

Actually, no one here cares to refer to Singapore as a 'Fine City'. Only tourist T-shirts sold at souvenir shops use that phrase. No doubt, the salesman at the shop pointed it out to the journalist, and made a big joke of it, as salesmen often do (it's called building rapport with your customers), but one salesman hardly qualifies as the plural "local wags".

And what are those fines? Nothing exceptional. Many cities in the world forbid smoking and littering in various places. Fines are a normal part of deterrence.

So what remarkable insight has been conveyed to readers by the first paragraph, that is unique to Singapore? None. But the impression (despite lack of good evidence so far) is still created that Singapore is pettily over-regulated, with individual freedom trampled upon.

I'm not saying that in reality, Singapore isn't over-regulated, or that our liberties aren't abridged, but this article does a poor job of arguing so.

 

I ponder this as I make my way through immigration at squeaky-clean, super-efficient Changi airport - the very model of what airports should aspire to. I was in a hurry to get to my hotel after a 13-hour flight from the UK and it was early, so I didn't stock up at the airport's Duty Free shops, though I could have, since this is one of the few civilised airports in the world which allows you to buy alcohol on arrival.

Singapore is so perfect, so clean and so well regulated that, climate aside, it would fit in seamlessly in Switzerland or Scandinavia. The island suffered from a bit of an image problem for a few years following the controls put in place under Lee Kuan Yew's prime ministership, and went through a period when it was about as exciting as a multi-storey car park.

See? No article worth the paper it's printed on can avoid mentioning cleanliness and efficiency. In reality, many Singaporeans will qualify these attributes, based on their day-to-day encounters with dirt, pollution and bureaucratic obstructionism, but that wouldn't fit in very well with the "received wisdom" of the West, would it?

You would also have noticed that Sterility also made its expected appearance: "about as exciting as a multi-storey car park". 

And honestly, why is stocking up (or not) at Duty-free important enough to merit a mention?

Since he retired as PM, Singapore's a very different place and a trip to this island state is now an attractive proposition. Even the entertainment scene - though nothing like as vibrant as it was when the transvestites and other dubious characters of Bugis Street were strutting their stuff - has come on in leaps and bounds under the slightly more relaxed hand of present prime minister Goh Chok Tong. But don't expect the atmospheric chaos of other Far East centres. This is a hi-tech, high-rise city filled with hotels all doing their best to outshine one another with better service and more spectacular guest rooms, restaurants and bars.

Bugis Street again! Oh lord, won't they ever get off it?  I'm old enough to have seen the real streetwalkers, and I can tell you, the transvestites were mostly past their use-by date. In any case, they were shoo'ed away from the area some 25 years ago, in the mid 70's.

To Singaporeans today, Bugis Street means nothing. It certainly doesn't represent any golden age of excitement. It's a hand-me-down memory from lecherous, army grunts on R&R from the Vietnam War, too pissed-drunk even to stumble out of the brothels. 

Yet, a generation on, much writing about Singapore still sucks blood out of the Bugis Street reference. It's like a leech forever stuck on a bum, with a view of Singapore grotesquely  limited by its fleshy contours. [See addenda #2]

Fairly typical, and a favourite with well-heeled travellers, is the Oriental at Marina Square, where many of the luxurious rooms have views across the bay. All the usual five-star facilities can be found in this stylish hotel, designed with the familiar atrium by John Portman at its heart. If you prefer a lush tropical garden setting, opt for one of the rooms in the recently-upgraded Garden Wing of the Shangri-La which, in spite of its size (760 rooms), still manages to provide excellent service.

The above paragraph and all the rest that follow, don't even deserve a comment. You can tell that the information is lifted from various brochures put out by the hotels, restaurants and other tourist attractions.

These regurgitations constitute 12 out of the total 16 paragraphs of the feature article.

Right at the end, one more bit of silliness: Tiger Balm. Take a thousand Singaporeans aside and ask if anyone has Tiger Balm, and chances are, the answer's no. It's just another tourist souvenir, with a charming story for the gullible.

 

To stay in a piece of history, there's nothing like the legendary Raffles Hotel - one of the few remaining great 19th century establishments, and declared a national monument by the government in 1987. Shortly afterwards it was given a S160m refurbishment and reopened in 1991.

Some say the present version has lost a lot of its old charm, but the original buildings are still there, albeit reinforced by modern amenities of which the old timers could only dream. The long bar still pulls in those in search of a Singapore Sling, and this remains the place to go for an old-style afternoon tea.

Those in the know are heading for one of the newest gems on Singapore's scene, The Fullerton, housed in a beautiful 1920s building, complete with Doric columns and monumental porte cocheres, which at various times has been home to the General Post Office, The Exchange, Chamber of Commerce and Singapore's Inland Revenue Authority.

Located by the river, right in the centre of the financial and business district, it is small wonder that The Fullerton has fast become the in-place for an after work drink, as well as a firm favourite with savvy visitors.

If you prefer urban chic, try the Gallery Evason at 79 Robertson Quay - so new and so cool you expect to see a sheen of ice on the walls. The Evason's management is proud of the hotel's art collection, so don't be surprised if you come across some odd items as you make your way through the hotel.

It took me quite a time to work out that a bucket half filled with water with a rubber duck floating in it - which I nearly tripped over in the lift - was actually an object d'art and not the result of a sloppy chambermaid leaving her cleaning materials in the wrong place. Prepare for concierges wearing more expensive designer suits than your own, and look out for the Liquid Room - a laid-back bar and club which has the local smart set fighting for membership. Those staying at the hotel will have no problem getting in, however.

All of these hotels leave you well placed for both shopping and sightseeing - two of the activities for which Singapore is rightly well known. For the former, head for Orchard Road where you will find a large selection of malls and stores selling everything from clothes and jewellery to compact disks and cameras.

When it comes to sightseeing, a good starting point is a boat trip along the river from Clarke Quay. Then head to the Botanical Gardens and see the herbarium, specially built to house orchids, Singapore's national flower. There are reputed to be 12,000 types growing here alone. Singapore Zoo is worth a visit, too. At breakfast time you can eat with the orang-utans. Next door is the Night Safari where, between 7.30 pm and midnight, you can watch buffalo, deer, tigers and fishing cats as they come out to feed.

With its strict hygiene regulations, Singapore is a wonderful city for local restaurants, since there's little danger of being laid low by a bug. Chinese restaurants are ubiquitous, but you will find cuisine from the whole of the Asia Pacific region, plus Europe and the Americas.

Indochine at 49, Club Street (00 65 323 0503) is a good bet - one of Singapore's most elegant restaurants, with a menu featuring food from such places as Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. For a serious formal dinner head upstairs, otherwise stay in the courtyard area where you can soak up the atmosphere and check out the street life outside. For casual surroundings, head for Clarke Quay, one of the many regenerated areas by the river now awash with decent bars and restaurants. Hotters (00 65 332 1991), serves massive helpings of American-style seafood. For an Asia Pacific flavour try The Satay Club (no bookings, just turn up), specialising in a wide variety of local noodle-and-rice-based dishes and of course, satay, skewered meat grilled over charcoal.

After all that feasting don't forget to bring home a couple of jars of Tiger Balm, that peculiarly Eastern analgesic cure-all originally prepared for Chinese emperors. It's claimed that Tiger Balm can sort out virtually every ailment from aches and pains to high blood pressure. Just the thing after a few busy days in Singapore.

* * * * *

What has the writer been busy with? you wonder. Doing the tourist thing, going from one expensive hotel to another, dining (on whose account, one wonders?) in fine restaurants, and throwing back Singapore Slings (which Singaporeans don't care for).

Where in all this is there any sign that the writer interviewed some ordinary Singaporeans to ask them about the society's place, if any, for misfits? Remember?  The subject of the article?

We often lament that we don't have freedom of the press here. Being beholden to the government, our newspapers can't be entirely trusted. It's easy to assume that things are better in the West. Not necessarily. There is quality journalism, for sure, but there's also a lot of mediocrity around. And who says that public opinion in the West is formed by their quality papers? Isn't it just as plausible that public opinion is formed by the second rate ones?

© Yawning Bread 


 

Footnotes

  1. A friend of mine, a National Waterpolo player, was in Manchester with the Singapore team at the end of March 2002, the very week the Queen Mother died. He told me, "the newspapers were bad; there really was no news. The front half was all about Queen Mum, and the back half was all football."
  2. See also the guest article The sailor's birthday present, in which Bob of Australia relates his one-of-a-kind experience that came out of Bugis Street, in the 1950s.
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Addenda

None